Overclocking
I will discuss the specifics of Galax's BIOS and AI software later, but the card with air cooling, like the MSI RTX 2080 Ti Lightning Z, is a prisoner in your own body. However, with the factory-set Power Target of 300 watts, it clocks significantly lower than the MSI card, but leaves considerably more room for manual overclocking. Reasonable 1830 MHz creates my copy out of the box, which is already not bad, but also leaves a lot of air up.
The built-in chip is a really good one. If you set the Power Target to the 450-watt limit and also raise the voltage to a permanent 1.1 volts, let the fans turn and measure, then the cooler still manages, even with approx. 380 watts and tolerable boost steps to be completed. That's 40 watts less than I could measure for the same bar on the MSI card!
In the average 2130 MHz with automatic fan control MHz, 2160 to 2175 MHz with full fan speeds (cold to 2205 MHz) then create proper propulsion and with a clever water cooling there are certainly even more in it. The software allows 1.25 volts for the "Normal" BIOS, which, however, cries out very loudly for a water cooling. With air, there are simply physical limits.
Instead of 7000 MHz, the memory could also run at 8000 MHz, everything about it will be partially slower with a little bad luck. However, I left it for safety. You never know…
Benchmark results in WQHD (2560 x 1440 pixels)
We see that the difference to the GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition is between 3 and 7 percent, depending on the game. If you then overclock up to the reasonable limit, it is a maximum of 10 to 11 percent that you win, whereby you run into the CPU limit from time to time at lower resolutions. This, in turn, is no longer necessarily decisive about any playability, but only for the gallery of vanities. It's also getting louder. But since it was always desired to put the OC results into the charts: gladly happen.
Benchmark results in Ultra HD (3840 x 2160 pixels)
KFA2 GeForce RTX 2080 Ti HOF, 11GB GDDR6, HDMI, 3x DP, USB-C (28IULBUCV6DK)
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