Commissioning
After connecting the power cable and optionally the network, the printer can be switched on for the first time using the toggle switch on the left side. Immediately afterwards, it is recommended to ensure that the printhead and bed carriage are firmly seated.
To do this, tighten the eccentric nuts until nothing wobbles. In my case, everything already fit, but you should check it in any case! In the next step, the belt tension can be adjusted on the front and right side of the X-axis. If you press your hand on the belt of the bed or extruder, it should bend a little. Extremely tight is, however, too much of a good thing, for the right center you need a little sensitivity.
After that, leveling of the print bed is the order of the day. To do this, tap the corresponding menu item and take a sheet of paper. I simply used the yellow instructions, which also works. The nozzle should be centered on the print bed, and we slide the paper under it. Then use the two arrows in the center of the display to set the Z-Offset so that there is a slight resistance when moving the paper. If this is correct, you can tap on Auxiliary Leveling. Repeat the process for all four points, this time using the adjustment wheels under the heating bed for adjustment. It is advisable to always have the piece of paper between the nozzle and the printing surface so that it is not scratched during adjustment.
If you tap the back button, the printer already advises you to create a mesh map of the surface. Since 121 points are measured three times, the process can take a while. So put the piece of paper away and use the time to unpack the filament and thread it through the sensor. Once the auto-bed leveling is complete, the Z-offset in the center should be checked again. The last step is to save all values by tapping on the disk symbol in the upper right corner!
Loading filament is quite simple, just preheat the hotend and heating bed via Prepare > Temp > PLA, press the lever on the extruder and push the filament into the hole on the top. The included USB stick also contains a few test prints, and we can try out the first one right away.
And if we haven’t made any gross mistakes so far, the first object should be created on the printing plate shortly after.
With my Neptune 4, it was also worth doing some PID tuning. Unfortunately, this is not possible directly on the touchscreen, you can read more about it on the site and in the official Klipper manual.
Value |
Hotend before |
Hotend after |
Heating bed before |
Heating bed after |
Kp |
26.213 |
23.128 |
0 |
67.778 |
Kd |
131.721 |
111.882 |
0 |
1067.510 |
Ki |
1.304 |
1.195 |
0 |
1.076 |
And even though I’m getting ahead of myself, here are the before and after values in comparison. Especially with the heating bed, I noticed that the temperature can be kept far more stable.
In addition, the heating power no longer jumps only between 0% and 100%, but jumps to a suitable percentage value in between.
Slicer
This manufacturer also has its own fork of the Ultimaker Cura software and calls it the Elegoo Slicer. You can download and install it on the support page of the printer.
As you can see, there were some problems with the language, I first helped myself with the image recognition of the Google translator and then switched to English in the settings. German is also available if needed, but it is usually easier to follow tutorials if you use the English terms.
At the time of testing, Elegoo Slicer is still based on the Cura Engine 4.8.0 , which was released on November 10, 2020. So quasi from the stone age, if you have the development speed in the 3D printer area in mind. Unfortunately, there is also still no profile in my preferred PrusaSlicer.
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