Now let’s start with the application of our Thermal Putty, which looks like strawberry ice cream that has become too solid. I won’t eat it, if only on principle, but there’s something appetizing about it. Think pink, or something. And speaking of putty: I took the putty out of the can with a spatula and pressed it to shape with a finger ring over my index finger. First, I replaced the pad on the voltage converters (DrMOS, NVVDD) for the GPU, the original of which is about 3 mm thick and could be compressed to about 2.8 mm. This should be an easy finger exercise for the Thermal Putty. The amount visible here is more than sufficient and even increases the connected area, because the PCB can also be actively cooled later.
The 2 phases for the memory each consist of two single MOSFETS from the lowest shelf. High- and Low-Side are separated and I deliberately did not save with Thermal Putty. Again, it was 3 mm pad and a real distance of 2.75 mm.
You should be a bit more generous with the storage, with the real area to be cooled only being about 1/4 of the package. Longitudinally in the center, it’s a thinner strip that marks the actual hotspot. Still, you can apply a bit more than I did here as well. We’ll see later that I could have put significantly more on here (but didn’t have to). The original pads were 1.75 mm thick, compressed to about 1.5 mm.
The coils were covered with a 0.75 mm pad, which rested on the bent cooling fins. Here I took a little too little, but it was enough in the end. I applied the thermal paste as a thin sausage in the middle of the long edges, since the GPU is somewhat curved. You could have even used a little less here, but better safe than sorry. Since the HY-P15 is not too viscous, everything spreads at least as easily as with Arctic’s old MX-2, whereby the cooling performance is significantly better.
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